Western Boots, Walk into Money
They can be a profitable fashion statement.
This is a category that requires some knowledge to succeed. That knowledge can pay huge dividends.
The graphic below is from eBay’s research tool. As you can see the sweet spot for this category is between $55 and $95, which isn’t a bad place to play. Though it varies a lot between thrift stores and communities few sell them for over $20 per pair.
Though the graph drops off, there is money to be made in the hundreds of dollars items as well.
Key clues to valuable boots.
I say this a lot, but the condition is really important. These tend to be a fashion statement, so they gotta look great. Heels can be fixed, but uppers often not.
Leather is by far the most common material used in boot construction. Well-made leather boots with a quality sole can be worth good money. If they have a Vibram sole and are in good shape they may be a winner even if they don’t look fancy. A quality pair of utilitarian boots is always in demand. Those may qualify more as work boots, but money is money.
Whatever the material, the quality of construction says a lot.
Stitching: Quality Western boots will have tight, even stitching that is resistant to fraying or unraveling. The stitching should be straight and consistent throughout the boot, with no loose or skipped stitches. Look for boots that use double or triple stitching in high-stress areas for added durability. There should never be any glue residue showing.
Sole Construction: The sole should be thick and durable, providing good traction and shock absorption. Vibram soles are in demand.
Heel Construction: Look for boots with a stacked leather heel or a rubber heel cap for added durability. Used boots often have wear along an edge. If a boot is valuable enough it may be worth having that fixed by a specialist.
Shape and Fit: Quality Western boots often have a break-in period, during which they mold to the contours of your feet for a personalized fit. With used boots be careful that that natural stretching isn’t too pronounced in any one area.
Attention to Detail: Quality Western boots will have clean, precise cuts, with no loose threads or rough edges. Check for well-finished interior lining, smooth edges on the leather, and consistent coloring or staining.
Western boots can also be made from exotic leathers, such as alligator, crocodile, snakeskin, or ostrich. These exotic leathers add a luxurious and eye-catching element to the boots and add value. They are sometimes less durable, so watch condition. There are also man-made faux versions they have gotten better and better over the past few years, so check closely.
Some exotic materials used in Western shoes:
Snakeskin: It is known for its distinctive pattern and texture. Snakeskin can come from various species of snakes, including pythons and rattlesnakes. All scales should still be in place for used boots to have significant value.
Look for the following characteristics:
Texture: Genuine snakeskin has a distinct texture that is often smooth and scaly. The scales should be uniform in size and shape, and they may have a slightly raised or bumpy appearance.
Pattern: Snakeskin boots typically have a unique pattern that resembles the natural markings of a snake. The pattern can vary depending on the species of snake used, but it often features irregular shapes or diamond-like patterns.
Flexibility: Real snakeskin is flexible and supple. When you gently bend the material, it should move easily and not crack or break. The scales should also remain intact and not peel off.
Scale Size: Snakeskin scales are generally small and closely spaced. The scales should be consistent in size, shape, and spacing across the entire boot.
Color Variation: Snakeskin boots may exhibit natural color variations, including different shades of brown, gray, or black. The pattern and coloration should be symmetrical on both boots.
Edges: Genuine snakeskin boots typically have cleanly finished edges with no fraying or roughness. The edges should be smooth and well-crafted.
Label or Markings: Look for any labels or markings on the boots that indicate genuine snakeskin. Though required in new boots, these have sometimes worn off in use.
Alligator/Crocodile: Alligator and crocodile leathers are highly prized for their luxurious appearance and durability. Alligator and crocodile skins are often sourced from farm-raised animals.
To identify alligator Western boot material look for the following:
Texture: Genuine alligator skin has a bumpy and pebbled appearance, with small raised scales that are tightly packed together. Should not have missing scales.
Pattern: Alligator skin typically has a symmetrical pattern of square or rectangular scales. The scales are often arranged in rows and have a uniform shape and size.
Belly vs. Hornback: Alligator skins can come from different parts of the alligator, resulting in variations in texture and scale patterns. The belly area of the alligator has a smoother texture with smaller scales, while the back or "hornback" area has larger scales and a more pronounced texture.
Flexibility: Genuine alligator skin is flexible and supple. When you gently bend the material, it should move easily and not crack or break.
Color Variation: Alligator skins can come in various colors, including shades of brown, black, and gray. The color should be consistent across the entire boot, with no noticeable fading or unevenness.
Edges: Genuine alligator Western boots typically have cleanly finished edges with no fraying or roughness. The edges should be smooth and well-crafted.
Label or Markings: Look for any labels or markings on the boots that indicate the use of genuine alligator skin. Though required in new boots, these have sometimes worn off in use.
Ostrich: Ostrich leather is known for its durability and natural oil content, which makes it resistant to cracking and drying out. If you see dry or cracked Ostrich, it’s either worn out or made of a faux man-made material.
Texture: Genuine ostrich skin has a unique texture that is characterized by raised bumps or quill follicles. These bumps are evenly distributed across the material and give it a distinctive appearance.
Pattern: Ostrich skin typically has a symmetrical pattern of larger follicles surrounded by smaller ones. The pattern can vary depending on the specific type of ostrich, but it often resembles a series of dots or ovals.
Flexibility: Real ostrich skin is flexible and supple. The bumps or quills should remain intact and not come off.
Scale Size: Ostrich skin scales are generally larger than those of other exotic leathers. The scales should be uniform in size and shape, with no irregularities or deformities.
Color Variation: Ostrich skins can come in various colors, including shades of brown, gray, and black. The coloration should be consistent across the entire boot, with no noticeable fading or unevenness.
Edges: Genuine ostrich Western boots typically have cleanly finished edges with no fraying or roughness. The edges should be smooth and well-crafted.
Label or Markings: Look for any labels or markings on the boots that indicate the use of genuine ostrich skin. Though required in new boots, these have sometimes worn off in use.
Lizard: It has a small, distinctive scale pattern that creates an interesting visual effect. Lizard skins used in footwear are usually sourced from farm-raised lizards.
Scale Pattern: Lizard skin has a distinct scale pattern that sets it apart from other materials. The scales are often small, round, and closely spaced. They may have a pebbled or bumpy texture.
Belly vs. Back: Lizard skins can come from different parts of the lizard, resulting in variations in texture and scale patterns. The belly area of the lizard has a smoother texture, while the back or "tail" area has larger scales and a more pronounced texture.
Flexibility: Genuine lizard skin is flexible and supple. When you gently bend the material, it should move easily and not crack or break. The scales should also remain intact and not peel off.
Color Variation: Lizard skins can come in various colors, including shades of brown, black, and gray. The color should be consistent across the entire boot, with no noticeable fading or unevenness.
Edges: Genuine lizard Western boots typically have cleanly finished edges with no fraying or roughness. The edges should be smooth and well-crafted.
Stingray: Stingray leather is an exotic material that is highly durable and has a unique bumpy texture. It is known for its strength and resistance to water, making it a practical choice for Western shoes. Stingray skins used in footwear are typically sourced from farm-raised animals.
To identify stingray material in Western boots, you can look for the following characteristics:
Texture: It has a pebbled or bumpy appearance, often described as a "pearl" or "cobblestone" pattern. The texture is created by the rows of calcified bumps called "pearls" or "buttons" that cover the skin.
Scale Size: Stingray scales are generally small and tightly packed together. The scales are uniform in size and shape, creating a smooth and consistent pattern across the skin.
Color Variation: Stingray skins can come in various colors, including shades of black, brown, gray, and even vibrant colors like red or blue. The coloration should be consistent across the entire boot, with no noticeable fading or unevenness.
Flexibility: Genuine stingray skin is relatively rigid and less flexible than other exotic materials. When you gently bend the material, it should offer some resistance and maintain its shape. The scales should remain intact and not peel off.
Edges: Genuine stingray Western boots typically have cleanly finished edges with no fraying or roughness. The edges should be smooth and well-crafted.
Label or Markings: Look for any labels or markings on the boots that indicate the use of genuine stingray skin. Though required in new boots, these have sometimes worn off in use.
These exotic materials are often used in combination with traditional leather to create Western shoes that are both stylish and distinctive. Materials are a big part of determining value, but it isn’t the whole story.
The brand also makes a difference
Some popular Western boot brands that sell for over $100 new: Price ranges listed below are for new, not used.
Lucchese: Their boots are handmade in Texas and are often regarded as some of the finest Western boots available. Prices for Lucchese boots typically start at around $300 and can go up to several thousand dollars.
Ariat: Their boots are designed to provide comfort, durability, and performance. Prices for Ariat boots range from around $150 to $500.
Tony Lama: Tony Lama offers a variety of styles, from traditional to more contemporary designs. Prices for Tony Lama boots start at around $200 and can go up to $500 or more.
Justin Boots: Justin Boots offers various collections, including traditional, exotic, and work boots. Prices for Justin Boots range from around $100 to $400.
Durango: Their boots feature classic Western designs and are made with quality materials. Prices for Durango boots typically range from around $100 to $300.
Nocona: Nocona offers a range of styles for men and women, including traditional, fashion, and work boots. Prices for Nocona boots start at around $150 and can go up to $500 or more.
Bespoke is where true excellence and uniqueness live. Bespoke boots are handmade to the customers’ exact specifications. Materials, size, shape, sole. Every part is made for one person. If you find one of these or other bespoke brands you are on to something. They tend to be very expensive. Some popular bespoke Western boot brands:
Little's Boot Company: Little's Boot Company is a renowned bespoke Western boot brand based in San Antonio, Texas.
Rocketbuster Boots: Rocketbuster Boots is an artisanal bootmaker located in El Paso, Texas.
J.B. Hill Boot Company: J.B. Hill Boot Company, based in Artesia, New Mexico, is another notable bespoke Western boot brand. They have been handcrafting custom boots since 1978, using traditional techniques and premium materials.
Paul Bond Boots: Paul Bond Boots, located in Nogales, Arizona, is a family-owned and operated business that has been making bespoke Western boots for over 70 years.
Warner's Custom Made Boots: Warner's Custom Made Boots, based in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, specializes in creating bespoke Western boots.
Stallion Boots: Stallion Boots offers a fully bespoke service, allowing customers to create custom boots that fit their feet perfectly and reflect their unique style. Prices for Stallion Boots start at around $1,000 and can go up to several thousand dollars.
Styles of Western Boots
Western boots come in various styles, each with its own unique features and characteristics. Here are some popular styles to consider:
Classic Cowboy Boots: Classic cowboy boots are the quintessential Western boots that come to mind when you think of the Wild West. They feature a tall shaft, typically reaching mid-calf, and a slanted heel. Classic cowboy boots often have decorative stitching, intricate patterns, and a pointed or rounded toe.
Roper Boots: Roper boots are similar to classic cowboy boots but have a shorter shaft, usually reaching just above the ankle. They are known for their comfort and versatility, making them a popular choice for everyday wear.
Stockman Boots: Stockman boots are designed for working cowboys and ranchers. They have a wider and more square toe, providing ample room for the toes and added comfort. Stockman boots also have a lower heel and a roomier fit.
Western Fashion Boots: Western fashion boots combine traditional Western elements with contemporary fashion trends. They often feature unique embellishments, such as studs, buckles, fringe, or exotic materials. Western fashion boots come in various shaft heights and heel heights, allowing for personal style expression.
Riding Boots: Riding boots, also known as equestrian boots, are designed for horseback riding. They typically have a sleek and streamlined silhouette, a tall shaft for added leg support, and a low heel. Riding boots can be found in both traditional leather and modern synthetic materials.
Work Boots: Work boots are built to withstand rugged conditions and provide ample protection for feet. They often feature reinforced toes, waterproof materials, and sturdy soles. Work boots are a popular choice for those in industries such as farming, construction, or landscaping.
Thanks for reading,
Tim Gebauer. Thrift Retailer.
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