Counterfeit merchandise has become a multi-billion dollar business with purses near the top of the list. If you are a thrift purse shopper you might unknowingly be buying fakes. It’s possible that a great deal might not be quite so great.
Most fakes are fairly easy to spot if one takes a moment to really look. Stitching can be uneven, glue can show, materials don’t feel substantial, the logo isn’t quite right, zippers are cheap, patterns don’t quite match up.
To be fair, thrift store operators are not experts on every random thing that comes in their door. Some take a “buyer beware” approach while others make a serious effort to eliminate the fakes. Either way, some make it to the sales floor.
For context, in 2019 U.S. Customs and Border Protection seized goods that, had they been genuine would have had a retail value of over 1.5 billion (yes billion) dollars in over 27,000 shipments. Wearing apparel and accessories made up more than $343 million. That is just what they caught.
There are a few ways to check out purses yourself to avoid fakes.
Materials are important. Supple leather is the go-to for most high-end purses. When man-made materials are used they don’t look like it. If you see cracks or wear through or it feels hard, it’s probably fake.
Stitching on the real thing is exacting. Stitch lines are straight and even, ends are neat and clean. The stitches themselves are even and consistent. There is never a loose thread. This is true on the inside as well as the outside.
Metals are a big giveaway. Designers only use solid metals, not plates. If the metal parts show color change wear or they don’t seem substantial it’s likely fake. Zippers and zipper pulls are a great thing to look at, if there is metal chipping you have a fake. Zippers themselves should operate smoothly.
Brand badges on real purses don’t come off. They are sewn or attached in a way that they will never come off. One way counterfeiters get around customs is to make the purse in another country without badges or brand names and add them after they get through customs. Some fake badges are just clipped on.
Consistency is a hallmark of real high-end bags. Everything will be straight and square. Are rivets perfectly even, are cutouts even, is handle stitching and attachment even on all sides? If it has a flat bottom are all lines square and straight?
Inside the bag is a place a lot of fakers like to cut corners. The real thing will be as exacting on the inside as the outside. If the fabric feels cheap and stitching is uneven or there are details that don’t look right, you have a tip-off.
Authenticity cards don’t prove anything. They are just as easy to fake as the rest of the purse. Experts are able to use the information on them to identify fakes. For your purposes look at the numbers and writing, is it square and consistent? The stitching on this should be as good as the rest of the purse. It should never come off.
What does that mean to the thrift shopper?
Not judging, but some people want the look and don’t care about the origin. Some fakes look like fakes from a mile away. I am not sure what the appeal of a cheap cheesy fake is but to each their own. Some are so good it takes an eagle eye to tell the difference. Not being a lawyer I don’t have a specific recommendation. It is important is to make thoughtful choices.
As a retailer reputation is important.
If a thrift store charges a higher price for a brand name item or is advertising say a Louis Vuitton purse they are indicating they think it is more valuable than the run-of-the-mill purse.
Some thrift stores have an internal employee that does a good job of pulling out fakes. Unfortunately, there is no school or widely recognized certification training program for purse authentication. They are relying on experience and comparisons.
More and more thrift operators are using authentication services and can provide a COE on better quality purses. Most of these services use high-resolution photographs of key parts of a purse and AI to determine real versus fake. Entropy is one example. I have found that a high-end purse with a COE sells for significantly more than an uncertified twin.
There are brand-name purses that are worth more than a big box store purse but not enough to spend time and money on authentication. It could be there are stains, wear, or style issues that limit its value but are still in demand. In my area, a lot of older Coach purses fall into this category. This group won’t have a COE, but can still represent a great deal to the thrift shopper
Even the best of intentions can go wrong. I had a nasty experience with fake Tommy logo tee shirts a few years ago. While working for a chain an approved vendor sold what was represented as new factory overrun goods. They sold as fast they came in. The first clue to me was that the vendor didn’t seem to run out. To make a very long story short, the Tommy organization demonstrated they were fakes and a lot of high-level drama ensued. On the surface, it seemed like field staff followed the rules. Really, the deal seemed too good to be true, and it was.
This can be a big deal for professional online resellers that use thrift stores to source their goods. One bad review or a brand owner investigation can make life miserable. For the everyday shopper, it’s about feeling good about a purchase.
As a merchant, it’s about delivering value while being clear about what we are selling.
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