Mens Suits, Dressed up for Thrift Profit
Men’s suits and sports coats are often ignored even by professional resellers. They are more work to list and are bigger and heavier. They are best stored hanging up.
The upside is a higher ticket and fewer competitors.
Using eBay’s research filters, (sold, completed, used) over 14,000 suits sold for over $50. That’s just on eBay.
Over 1,200 sold for over $300, and 150+ sold for over $1,000.
Highest-priced sold listing:
I list this one because it is the highest ticket item sold as used on eBay according to their research tool. It was sold by Save A Suit a not-for-profit dedicated to working with Veterans.
Chances are the expensive suits donated to them are intentional high-value donations. These may not typically be found in the average thrift store. That’s part of the fun of the hunt!
I visited my local Red Racks over the weekend and they only had a couple dozen suits. One was an Armani easily valued at over $200, I bought it to sell. I’ll do a post on that once it sells. It’s also my size, so it may be hard to part with.
Condition is super important. Think of the times someone is going to wear a suit bought secondhand. It’s either to look good at work, for a meeting, a job interview, a family occasion, or an important life event. No one wants a Pilley-worn suit.
Top condition items to look at:
Overall does it look good?
Buttons, are they all there and match, especially on the sleeve?
Collar, armpits, are there sweat stains?
The liner, is the stitching all there and in good condition?
Lapels, pockets, and bottom of the coat do wear show?
Sleeve ends, do they show wear or look like they have been lengthened or shortened?
Does the lapel lay well without looking ironed in place? Better suits have a little roll at the bottom.
Pockets in good shape with no holes?
Is the stitching throughout even and straight, especially along the shoulder and top of the sleeve?
Are brand and care labels still in place?
Pants, bottoms, pockets, beltline, and liner all look great.
Is the styling fairly current? This changes all the time so I won’t list a specific suggestion here. To me, visiting department stores or websites will tell you what is hot. Lapel width and depth seem to be the thing that changes the most.
Fabric
After condition fabric is super important. Better labels will have better fabrics, but boutique or specialty brands you might not be familiar with will also have better fabrics. Don’t skip a brand if it has the right fabric and is well-made.
Wool is the most popular fabric for men's suits. It's durable, comfortable, and can be worn in a variety of temperatures. High-end wool fabrics are often made from merino wool, which is known for its softness and moisture-wicking properties.
Merino wool is a type of wool that comes from Merino sheep, which are primarily raised in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
This Italian fabric maker label is also a clue to quality. They are so good suit makers will add this label to indicate quality. If you see a label with this brand fabric maker you are on to something.
The Super wool number indicates the quality of the wool.
The highest level is Super 250 wool. However, it is important to note that the higher the super number, the more delicate and prone to damage the fabric may be, so it is not always an indication of higher quality.
Super 150 and 180 are commonly used in luxury men's suits, while anything above Super 200 is considered quite rare and expensive. Super 120 to 140 is fairly common in better suits and still indicates quality.
Mohair: Mohair is a type of wool that comes from the Angora goat. It has a lustrous sheen and is known for its durability and resistance to wrinkles. Mohair suits are often more expensive than wool suits due to the cost of the material.
Cashmere (my favorite) is a luxurious fabric that is known for its softness and warmth. It is a popular choice for winter suits. Look for a 100% cashmere label. Cashmere that is tightly woven or knit is generally of higher quality, as it will be more durable and less likely to wear out or develop holes.
Silk: This is a lightweight and smooth fabric that is often used for summer suits. Silk suits are not as durable as wool or cashmere but are perfect for hot weather and can be worn for weddings or other formal events.
Mulberry silk is considered to be the highest quality silk for men's suits. It is produced by silkworms that are fed only mulberry leaves, resulting in a soft, smooth textured fabric.
Tussah silk, on the other hand, is produced by silkworms that feed on various leaves and is considered to be less durable and have a coarser texture.
A silk fabric with a thread count of at least 200 is considered to high quality. The weight of silk is measured in momme (mm) and typically ranges from 12 mm to 30 mm. A higher momme weight indicates a thicker, more durable fabric.
Men’s suits are sometimes made of a blend of silk and wool in order to combine the best qualities of both materials. You will also find other blends from time to time.
Other fabrics like cotton or linen are also used but tend to be more every day and may not be worth buying for resale. Man-made materials have not been popular in suit manufacture so far.
Some top luxury fabric brands commonly used for men's suits:
Ermenegildo Zegna
Scabal
Loro Piana
Dormeuil
Vitale Barberis Canonico
Tom Ford
Others worth noting:
Canali
Brioni
Kiton
Corneliani
Isaia
Ralph Lauren Purple Label
Hugo Boss Black Label
These brands are known for producing high-quality fabrics that are durable, luxurious, and perfect for men's suits. All are known for their attention to detail and commitment to quality. If you see a label with any of these names you are looking at a well-made suit.
Another clue to quality is the country of origin. Italy, France, and other European countries are worth an extra look.
When you find a suit that fits some of these quality measures, you may have found a winner, but still do your online research before making that investment. Always remember your job is to turn money into stuff, to turn that stuff into more money.
Bespoke Suits
A true Bespoke suit is custom-made for a specific person made to their unique size, shape, and preferences. These are made by a Taylor with in-person fittings. They are identifiable by a specific Taylor’s name label as well as the name of the person it was made for. The fabric and tailoring are normally the highest quality. The challenge with selling these online is telling the quality story.
Posting the name of the person it was made for may also have unintended consequences.
I have an amazing silk bespoke sports coat my brother-in-law gave me. It fits me well even though it was made for him. The fabric and tailoring are amazing. Yes, my brother-in-law’s name is on the inside pocket. Don’t care.
Bespoke is not the same as made-to-measure which can be ordered online and are often made in China. Nothing wrong with them, just not the same as a real Bespoke suit.
Next time you walk by the Men’s suit department, take a look. You might just find a treasure.
Thanks for reading, Tim Gebauer. Thrift Retailer.
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