Finding Value in Thrifted Western Boots
Walk into money
This is a category where some knowledge can pay huge dividends.
The graphic is from eBay’s research tool. As you can see the sweet spot is between $55 and $95. The graph drops off, but there is money to be made in the hundreds of dollars as well.
Though it varies a lot between thrift stores and communities, few sell them for over $20 per pair.
We will review signs of a quality boot in resellable condition, popular and exotic materials, and some name brands worth looking for.
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Identifying Quality Boots
I say this a lot, but the condition and quality of construction are really important. These are often a fashion statement, so they gotta look great.
Quality Western boots will have tight, even stitching that is resistant to fraying or unraveling.
The sole should be thick and durable, providing good traction and shock absorption. Vibram soles are always in demand.
Look for boots with a stacked leather or a rubber heel cap providing added durability.
Used boots often have wear along the sole and heel. If it's excessive and is valuable enough it may be worth having that fixed by a specialist.
With used boots be careful that the natural stretching that accommodated the original owner isn’t too pronounced in any one area.
A previous owner with a wider foot or unusual toe may shape the boot in a way that is not appealing to another user.
Check for a well-finished interior, smooth edges, consistent coloring, and excessive sweat staining.
Understanding Different Boot Materials
Leather is by far the most common material. Tooling and stitching can raise the fashion value of a boot.
They can also be made from exotic materials, such as alligator, crocodile, snakeskin, stingray, or ostrich. These exotic leathers add a luxurious and eye-catching element and add sometimes considerable value.
Some exotics can be less durable, so watch condition. There are also man-made faux versions that have gotten better and better over the past few years.
Snakeskin is known for its distinctive pattern and texture. It can come from various species, including pythons and rattlesnakes.
Genuine snakeskin has a distinct texture that is often smooth and scaly. They may have a slightly raised or bumpy appearance and are generally small and closely spaced.
The pattern can vary depending on the species of snake used.
Real snakeskin is flexible and supple. When you gently bend the material, it should move easily.
Alligator and crocodile leathers are highly prized for their luxurious appearance and durability.
Genuine alligator skin has a bumpy and pebbled appearance, with small raised scales that are tightly packed together.
Alligator skin typically has a symmetrical pattern of square or rectangular scales.
Alligator skins can come from different parts of the alligator. The belly area has a smoother texture with smaller scales, while the back or "hornback" area has larger scales and a more pronounced texture.
Watch out for fading or unevenness.
Ostrich is known for its durability and natural oil content, which makes it resistant to cracking and drying out. If you see dry or cracked Ostrich, it’s either worn out or made of a faux material.
Ostrich skin typically has a symmetrical pattern that often resembles a series of dots or ovals.
Lizard skin has a distinct scale pattern that sets it apart from other materials. The scales are often small, round, and closely spaced. They may have a pebbled or bumpy texture.
The belly area of the lizard has a smoother texture, while the back or "tail" area has larger more pronounced scales.
Stingray is an exotic material that is highly durable and has a unique bumpy texture often described as a "pearl" or "cobblestone" pattern. It is known for its strength and resistance to water, making it a practical and attractive choice for Western shoes.
The texture is created by the rows of calcified bumps called "pearls" or "buttons" that cover the skin.
Stingray scales are generally small and tightly packed together and may have a two-tone pattern.
They can even come in vibrant colors like red or blue. These can be striking and highly prized.
Genuine stingray skin is relatively rigid and less flexible than other exotic materials.
These exotic materials are often used in combination with traditional leather to create Western shoes that are both stylish and distinctive.
Materials are a big part of determining value, but it isn’t the whole story.
Popular Western Boot Brands
Following are some popular quality Western boot brands.
Lucchese are handmade in Texas and often regarded as some of the finest Western boots available.
Ariat boots are designed to provide comfort, durability, and performance.
Tony Lama offers a variety of styles, from traditional to more contemporary designs.
Justin Boots offers various collections, including traditional, exotic, and work boots.
Durango boots feature classic Western designs and are made with quality materials.
Nocona offers a range of styles including traditional, fashion, and work boots.
The Luxury of Bespoke Boots
Bespoke is where true excellence and uniqueness live. Bespoke boots are handmade to the customers’ exact specifications.
Materials, size, shape, sole. Every part is made for one person. If you find one of these or other bespoke brands you are on to something. They tend to be very expensive. Some popular bespoke Western boot brands include:
Little's Boot Company is a renowned bespoke Western boot brand based in San Antonio Texas.
Rocketbuster Boots is an artisanal bootmaker located in El Paso Texas.
J B Hill Boot Company is based in Artesia New Mexico. They have been handcrafting custom boots since 1978, using traditional techniques and premium materials.
Paul Bond Boots, located in Nogales Arizona, is a family-owned and operated business that has been making Western boots for over 70 years.
Stallion Boots offers a fully bespoke service. Prices for Stallion Boots can go up to several thousand dollars.
Different Styles of Western Boots
Western boots come in various styles, each with its own unique features and characteristics. Here are some popular styles to consider:
Classic cowboy boots are the quintessential boots that come to mind when you think of the Wild West. They feature a tall shaft, typically reaching mid-calf and a slanted heel. Classic cowboy boots often have decorative stitching, intricate patterns, and a pointed or rounded toe.
Roper boots are similar to classic cowboy boots but have a shorter shaft, usually reaching just above the ankle. They are known for their comfort and versatility, making them a popular choice for everyday wear.
Stockman boots are designed for working cowboys and ranchers. They have a wider and more square toe, providing ample room for the toes and added comfort. Stockman boots also have a lower heel and a roomier fit.
Western fashion boots combine traditional Western elements with contemporary fashion trends. They often feature unique embellishments, such as studs, buckles, fringe, or exotic materials. Western fashion boots come in various shaft heights and heel heights, allowing for personal style expression.
Riding boots, also known as equestrian boots, are designed for show riding. They typically have a sleek and streamlined silhouette, a tall shaft for added leg support, and a low heel. Riding boots can be found in both traditional leather and modern synthetic materials.
Work boots are built to withstand rugged conditions and provide ample protection for feet. They often feature reinforced toes, waterproof materials, and sturdy soles. Work boots are a popular choice for those in industries such as farming, construction, or landscaping.
As with anything, do your research before investing in second-hand boots.
Thanks for reading,
Tim Gebauer, Thrift Retailer.
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