Finding Value in Aloha (Hawaiian) Shirts

Volume 3 of Micro Category Tips

Jul 16, 2023

Aloha or Hawaiian shirts are still popular nearly a century after their introduction. There is something about their unique style and statement that people continue to love and collect. The name Aloha Shirt was trademarked in 1936 by Ellery Chun who sold them under the name King-Smith.

Aloha shirt is the local term. Hawaiian shirts started when they began showing up on the mainland.

Insider tip: On the islands never say “in the US”, it’s insulting. They are our 50th state, after Alaska. Use “On the mainland” when referring to something in the 48. In an international group “US mainland” works well.

The style is believed to have begun with repurposing Kimono fabric. True vintage, especially pre-1950 can be quite valuable and easy to miss if you don’t know what you are looking for. A few are worth north of $10,000, many are worth hundreds to thousands.

An untrained textile producer in a thrift store that is turning out a hundred pieces an hour isn’t likely to notice and may toss them in salvage because of their apparent age.

An acquaintance of mine only sells Hawaiian shirts in his online store, almost all are bought at thrift stores. He sometimes finds them online, with bad pictures or poor descriptions. He has developed an eye for the fabrics and look, he can spot one a mile away. He makes bank on that deep narrow knowledge of this micro category. It’s a side gig for him, and a very profitable one.

The first thing to look for:

Made in Hawaii on the label. Or Styled and Made in Hawaii.

Hawaii is one of the few places that has retained local manufacturing. Even modern shirts with this label are worth more. Many vintage will also use the name of the city of manufacture, a resort, or a store name.

Common traits of vintage and some modern reproductions:

3 to 5 buttons

Neck collar loops are a huge giveaway

Buttons made of Coconut, sometimes embossed metal.

Buttonholes are horizontal not vertical

Cabana pockets, generally pre-1970s (pockets at the waist)

Rayon, cotton, or silk. Rayon was and is popular because of the way it holds and absorbs dyes. Colors pop better with this fabric than any other. Rayon was especially popular from the mid-fifties and before, fine cotton became more common after that.

Fabric care labels were not added until the 1960s

Reverse prints, where the inside is outside came about in the 1960s. My favorite is popular but for the most part not considered collectible.

While researching for this article I ran across several sites selling what they called vintage. When I clicked on specific items they were available in all sizes. Maybe reproductions of actual vintage, but they can’t possibly be true vintage. Also, modern legally required care labels are a dead giveaway.

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Things that affect value:

Age and label are huge

Condition and type of cloth

The design of the print, true Hawaiian design is not the same as other islands’ designs. Tiki, Royal Processions, and Bringing in the fish (harvest) are popular as were Kimono fabrics. Early on fabrics were printed in Japan and shirts were tailored in Hawaii. Early prints were made with as many as 21 different colors, each done by hand.

Quality of the graphics.

True vintage long sleeves are rare and valuable. Sotheby’s sold one for over $10,000.

Women’s versions are underrated and often missed. Tops and dresses in this style made in Hawaii are hard to find.

Hawaiians were generally smaller than modern Americans, so vintage shirts in larger sizes are hard to find.

Prints that have been on TV, think Magnum PI. They, for example, are still being made by the Pacific Trading Company and sell for a premium online. The resale value is well above that of a run-of-the-mill shirt.

Patch pocket that matches the print underneath. Any type made this way is of better quality.